13.6.10

Wild nights in bed

While the mosquitoes are at rest, the cats and dogs of Dodoma, are working hard at reproducing themselves. I am told that they come from all around town to find a mate at this time of the year. During the day you see them snoozing but at night the sounds are awakening. They yowl and bark and the cats screech and emit high pitched feline roars and hisses. If I’m perfectly honest, it can be a bit disturbing to hear this just outside your window. Luckily Tumaini, our Masai night guard, has a bow and arrow to protect the house. Around 5am the mosque assumes its duty to wake up everyone it possibly can. Partly sung, partly shouted orders for sleepers to rise are cried out from the local minaret for a good ten minutes. I become increasingly skilled in reaching out for the spare pillow to sandwich my head. I leave it like this to muffle the crows that come with sunrise. Our neighbours seem to have several roosters roaming about ready to let us all know when the sun comes out. I am now able tell how deep my sleep has been depending on what, if anything, has broken my sleep at night. Visitors are advised to bring earplugs!

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